JazzFest Opening Day: Let The Good Times Roll

Posted: April 23rd, 2010 | Filed under: Culture, Politics, Ruminations | No Comments »

A few more observations on the Crescent City before the music begins today.

The local newspaper, New Orleans Times-Picayune, remains profitable and robust. Yet another testament to the reality that this town is like no other in America.

The sports pages are thicker than the entire C-J on a normal day. Plus four other full sections, covering local news, national stories, local culture, arts & entertainment. Several thick sections of classifieds. It’s a real throw back. Former columnist Angus Lind confirmed to me what is obvious. People in this town are still old school enough to sit down in the morning and read the paper in print with their coffee and chicory.

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Felisha — remember her from yesterday’s post, the gal who drove our van to the rental car lot — advises that her home insurance carrier did her right. That her house has been rebuilt in the now infamous Lower 9th.

“It’s up on stilts,” she advises.

“Above the flood line?”

“No.” She laughs.

Another case of almost doing it right.

“But the area is coming back.”

So it seems. The reign of totally ineffectual mayor Ray Nagin ends Monday a week. Mitch Landrieu then takes over and those around here who care about such matters — most everybody — seems pumped for some positive change. The new Hizzoner has task forces reporting to him on everything from sanitation to infrastructure rebuilding to cultural empowerment to a new police chief, etc, etc.

That the town has survived Katrina, Nagin’s doofus administration, Bush’s failure to help, the Army Corps of Engineers and the town’s default ways is stunning.

There is actually road work being done here. Slow, the New Orleans way, but in motion — slow motion — nonetheless.

It’s a sight to see.

Along St. Charles and Carrolton near Riverbend, you’d never know there was a Katrina

That said, there are plenty areas in town which remain Desolation Row.

Some friends drove into New Orleans from the east on I-10. They say there are still any number of barren vistas along that route.

You know the saying, Rome wasn’t built in . . .

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As always, the Quarter is bustling with turista.

Bourbon Street remains a cesspool of drunkenness. Jackson Square is still full of “artist squatters.” Contrary to one report I read, they still serve beignets and coffee in and on ceramic ware at Cafe Du Monde.

One curiosity that might interest only me. Last night there was a line to get in Felix’s Oyster Bar, while there was no wait across the street at the eminently more famous Acme Oyster Bar.

What’s it mean? I dunno.

* * * * *

This year’s harvest of soft shell crabs is abundant. Gulf Pompano remains the fish to be eaten, with some crabmeat Meuniere on top.

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